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Braised Lamb Shanks with Garlic and Vermouth

The inspiration for this recipe comes from Richard Olney's "Simple French Food", where the shanks and garlic are cooked with nothing more than a bit of water. I've updated Olney's version by adding dry white vermouth adn a few bay leaves. Make this on a Sunday afternoon when you're hanging around doing nothing much at all. As the lamb braises, wonderful meaty, herbaceous aromas will fill the house.

Serves 6

6 lamb shanks (3/4 to 1 pound each)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 cup dry white vermouth, preferably Vya or Noilly Pratt
2 bay leaves
2 heads garlic, separated into cloves (unpeeled)
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice; more as needed
1/4 cup chopped fresh herbs, preferably a mix of mint and parsley (chervil and chives are also good)

Heat the oven to 325 degrees. Trim any excess fat from the lamb shanks (being careful not to trim away the thin membrane that holds the meat to the bone) and season them all over with salt and pepper.

Heat the oil over medium heat in a large Dutch oven or other heavy braising pot large enough to accommodate the lamb shanks in single or double layer. When the oil is shimmering, add half the shanks and brown on all sides, 12 to 15 minutes total. Set the browned shanks on a platter or tray to catch any drippings. Repeat with the remaining shanks. When all the shanks are browned, pour off and discard the fat from the pan.

Return the pan to medium-high heat and add the vermouth. As the vermouth boils, stir with a wooden spoon to dissolve the drippings. Return the shanks to the pan, arranging them as best you can so they fit snugly. Tuck the bay leaves in between the shanks and scatter over the garlic. Cover and slide into the lower third of the oven. Braise, turning the shanks every 45 minutes, until fork tender, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Transfer the shanks to a platter and cover with foil to keep warm. Tilt the braising pot to pool the juices at one end and skim off the surface fat. Strain the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing down on the garlic cloves so the pulp goes through but not the skins. Discard the bay leaves. Whisk in the lemon juice. Taste the strained sauce for salt. To serve, spoon the sauce over the shanks and shower them with the chopped herbs and a little freshly ground pepper.

For making ahead: don’t bother skimming the fat from the braising liquid. Instead, strain it, pressing down to extract the garlic pulp, and pour a little over the shanks to moisten the meat. Refrigerate the shanks and remaining strained braising liquid separately, both tightly covered. Before serving, arrange the shanks in a baking dish. Lift the solid fat from the top of the chilled liquid, spoon what remains over the shanks, cover with foil and warm in a 325 degree oven for about 30 minutes. Finish with herbs and black pepper, and serve.
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