Molly Stevens Cooks : Recipes & Tips

Recipes & Tips

· Spaghetti with Asparagus, Scallions and Bacon · Fennel Braised with Thyme and Black Olives · Orange-Scented Mediterranean Shrimp Braise · Honey Walnut Plum Cake · Fresh Oranges with Rosemary-Honey Syrup · Braised Lamb Shanks with Garlic and Vermouth · Knife-and-Fork Egg Salad Sandwiches with Chives · Orange Marmalade Tart · Sausages & Plums Braised in Red Wine · Creamy White Bean Soup with Sausage · Skillet Cornbread with Olives, Rosemary and Parmesan · Red Cabbage Braised with Maple & Ginger · Braised Lamb Shanks with Garlic and Vermouth

Spaghetti with Asparagus, Scallions and Bacon Few things are as comforting as a plate of spaghetti carbonara, but the rich bacon-and-egg sauce can be too indulgent for a weeknight supper. This vivid interpretation lightens and brightens things up by eliminating the raw egg, cutting back on the bacon, skipping the cream, and adding plenty of fresh asparagus and scallions. It’s like springtime in a bowl with just the right amount of smoky bacon flavor to recall the original and satisfy any appetite. A hint of lemon zest and a handful of fresh parsley complete the picture. Serve a simple tossed salad and/or a loaf of garlic bread to round out the meal. Serves 4 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 3 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/2 inch pieces 1 bunch scallions, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch pieces (scant 1 cup) 1/4 cup dry white wine 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces 1 pound spaghetti 1/2 cup freshly chopped flat-leaf parsley 1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest 1/2 cup freshly grated parmesan, plus more for serving Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, combine the oil and bacon in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Cook until almost crisp, about 7 minutes. Add the scallions (leaving the bacon and fat in the pan), and sauté, stirring occasionally, until tender and beginning to brown in spots, about 4 more minutes. Add the white wine and bring to a boil, scraping with a wooden spoon to dislodge any caramelized bits. Simmer for 1 minute, then remove from the heat and set aside in a warm place When the water boils, drop in the asparagus and cook until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Transfer the asparagus with a slotted spoon to a colander to drain. Rinse with cold water and set aside to drain. Return the water to a rapid boil and add the pasta. Boil until al dente, stirring occasionally. Drain, reserving about 1/2 cup of pasta cooking water. Heat the bacon and wine mixture over medium-high heat. Add the drained pasta, the asparagus, and a few tablespoons of the reserved pasta cooking water. Toss to combine. If the pasta seems dry, add a bit more pasta cooking water. Add the parsley, lemon zest, cheese and a generous amount of black pepper, and toss well. Taste for salt and pepper. Serve in warm pasta bowls, topping each with additional freshly ground black pepper and parmesan, as desired.	Back To Top

Fennel Braised with Thyme and Black Olives Cooking fennel is akin to cooking onions. Whereas raw fennel is crisp, and almost biting, braised fennel becomes tame and seductively tender. The sharp anise flavor of the raw vegetable mellows into a sweetness that even non–licorice lovers will appreciate. Don’t be at all put off by the anchovies in the recipe. They are discernable only as a bass note of flavor to match the higher tones of the sweet fennel. If you’re serving these to professed anchovy haters, don’t say a word. They’ll never guess what makes the dish taste so good. Serve the braised fennel warm as a side dish to meat or fish, or serve it room temperature as a salad or part of an antipasto. Serves 6 3 large or 4 medium fennel bulbs (about 3 pounds total) 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup pitted oil-cured black olives, such as Nyons or Moroccan 2 garlic cloves, minced 5 to 6 anchovy fillets, minced 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds, toasted and lightly crushed 1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds, toasted and lightly crushed 1/3 cup dry white wine or dry white vermouth 3/4 cup chicken stock, homemade or store-bought 1. Heat the oven to 325 degrees. 2. Trimming the fennel: If the fennel came with the feathery green stalks attached, use a large knife to chop these off right down at their base, where the bulb begins. Reserve a few of the brightest and freshest-looking fronds for garnish, and save the rest for stock or discard. If the very base of the fennel bulbs looks brown or at all dried out, slice off a thin sliver. Check the sides of the bulbs as well, and trim off any brown parts with a vegetable peeler. Cut each bulb in half through the core and then halve again, into quarters. 3. Browning the fennel: Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large heavy-based skillet (12-inch) over medium-high heat until it ripples. Add as many quarters of fennel as will fit without crowding, one cut side down. Leave the fennel undisturbed for 3 minutes—moving the pieces around will only slow down the browning process. With tongs, lift a few quarters to check to see if they’ve browned in spots. Because of its uneven surface, the fennel won’t brown evenly: you’re looking for patches of caramelization. Turn the quarters onto the other cut side and leave again until browned, another 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the quarters from the pan and arrange them browned side up in a large gratin dish or shallow baking dish (9- to 10-by-13- to 14-inches). Add the remaining oil to the skillet and brown the remaining fennel. Add this batch of fennel to the gratin dish, arranging it as best you can so the wedges line up in a single layer. It’s okay if the wedges are a bit cramped; they will collapse and shrink some as they braise. Season with salt and pepper. Scatter over the olives. 4. The aromatics and braising liquid: Combine the garlic, anchovies, thyme, fennel seeds, and coriander in a small saucepan, and smash the mixture against the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to make a rough paste. Add the wine, bring to a boil over high heat, and boil until reduced by about half, about 2 minutes. Add the stock and bring to a simmer. 5. The braise: Pour the seasoned liquid over the fennel, cover tightly with foil, and slide onto the middle rack of the oven. Braise until the fennel has collapsed and a small knife penetrates the core of the wedges with no resistance, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. 6. Serving: If you reserved the feathery tops, chop them to give you about 2 tablespoons, and sprinkle them over the top of the braise. Serve warm or at room temperature. Recipe from “All About Braising”, by Molly Stevens (WW Norton, 2004)	Back To Top

Orange-Scented Mediterranean Shrimp Braise The braising liquid for this dish consists of a colorful mix of tomatoes, garlic, onion, carrots, and celery that I brighten with the zests and juice of orange and lime. I also include small potatoes to turn this into a satisfying one-dish meal. The shrimp get tossed in just a few minutes before serving, making the finished dish a real cornucopia of seafood and vegetables. Since this braise comes out rather soupy, serve it in shallow pasta bowls. If you’ve got guests with raging appetites, ladle the braise over linguine or rice. Serves 4 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 to 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 /2 cup finely chopped yellow onion (about 1/2 small onion) 1 /2 cup finely chopped carrot (1 small carrot) 1/2 cup finely chopped celery (1/2 stalk) Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup dry white wine or dry white vermouth 2 strips orange zest, removed with a vegetable peeler (each about 3 inches by 3/4inch) 1 strip lime zest, removed with a vegetable peeler (about 2 inches by 1/2inch) 1/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice 1/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice One 14 1/2-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes, drained and chopped (or 1 1/3cups chopped, peeled, and seeded ripe plum tomatoes) Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes 1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley 3/4 pound small potatoes, preferably fingerlings or white creamers 1/4 cup small green olives, such as Picholine, not pitted 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained 3/4 pound large shrimp (30 to 35 count per pound), peeled and deveined 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces (optional) 1. The aromatics and braising liquid: Heat the oil in a large deep lidded skillet (13-inch works well) over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the onion, carrot, and celery. Season with salt and pepper, stir, and sauté until just beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, sauté another minute more. Add the white wine, orange and lime zests, and orange and lime juices, and let the liquid simmer vigorously until reduced by half, 5 to 8 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, crushed red pepper, and 2 tablespoons of the parsley. Return to a simmer. 2. The braise: Turn the heat to very low, cover, and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Then add the potatoes, olives, and capers. Stir so the potatoes are evenly distributed, replace the cover, and continue to simmer until the potatoes are easily pierced with the tip of a knife, another 30 to 40 minutes. 3. The finish: Add the shrimp, leave the pan uncovered, and adjust the heat so the liquid simmers gently. Simmer just until the shrimp are cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons parsley, and taste. If the sauce tastes too acidic or too sharp, stir in the butter. The small bit of butter will soften the acidity nicely. Taste again for salt and pepper. Remove the zests if you like, and serve in shallow bowls.	Back To Top

Honey Walnut Plum Cake This cake needs no icing, although I sometimes drizzle a thread of warmed honey over each slice before serving. I also like to serve it with a dollop of honey-sweetened whipped cream, Greek yogurt or luxurious mascarpone. To truly gild the lily, add a few honey-coated walnut halves or honey-candied orange zest. Besides lending a wonderful flavor to this appealing cake, honey increases its keeping properties. Well-wrapped and unrefrigerated, this cake keeps for several days. Makes one 9-inch cake 1 cup all-purpose flour or white whole wheat flour or whole-wheat pastry flour 1 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 5 ounces (about 1 1/3 cups) walnut pieces, lightly toasted 10 tablespoons (1 1/4 sticks) unsalted butter, softened 1/2 cup honey, preferably a floral or citrus variety 1/4 sugar 1/2 teaspoon grated tangerine zest 3 large eggs, room temperature 2 teaspoons brandy, preferably Armagnac or Cognac (or 1/2 teaspoon vanilla) 1 cup (about 5 ounces) dried plums (prunes), chopped into 1/4-inch bits Preheat the oven to 350 degrees, and set a rack in the center of the oven. Butter and flour a 9-inch cake pan. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. Place the walnuts in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade, add about half the flour mixture (this prevents the nuts from becoming oily), and grind the nuts until powdery. Add the remaining flour, and whir to combine. In a mixer, or by hand with a wooden spoon, cream together the butter, honey and sugar until very light and fluffy. Add the tangerine zest, and mix to combine. One by one, add the eggs, mixing well after each addition. Add the brandy. Add the dry ingredients, mixing gently until incorporated. Stir in the plums. Spread the batter into the cake pan. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 35 minutes. Let the cake cool for 10 minutes in the pan. Run a knife around the edge, turn it out and let it cool, right side up, on a cake rack.	Back To Top

Braised Lamb Shanks with Garlic and Vermouth Serves 6 6 lamb shanks (3/4 to 1 pound each) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 cup dry white vermouth, preferably Vya or Noilly Pratt 2 bay leaves 2 heads garlic, separated into cloves 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, more as needed 1/4 to 1/3 cup chopped fresh herbs, preferably a mix of mint and parsley (chervil and chives are also good) Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 325 degrees. If necessary, trim any excess fat from the lamb shanks (being careful not to trim away the thin membrane that holds the meat to the bone) and season them all over with salt and pepper. Heat the oil over medium heat in a large Dutch oven or other heavy braising pot large enough to accommodate the lamb shanks in a snug single layer. When the oil is shimmering, add half the shanks and brown on all sides, 12 to 15 minutes total. Set the browned shanks on a platter or tray to catch any drippings. Repeat with the remaining shanks. When all the shanks are browned, pour off and discard the fat from the pan. Return the pan to medium-high heat and add the vermouth. As the vermouth boils, stir with a wooden spoon to dissolve any drippings. Return the shanks to the pan, arranging them as best you can so they fit snugly. Tuck the bay leaves in between the shanks and scatter the garlic over them. Cover and slide into the oven. Braise, turning the shanks every 45 minutes, until fork tender, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Transfer the shanks to a platter and cover with foil to keep warm. Tilt the braising pot to pool the juices at one end and skim off the surface fat. Strain the remaining liquid through a medium-mesh sieve set over a bowl. Discard the bay leaves, and with a rubber spatula, press down on the garlic cloves so the pulp goes through but not the skins. Be sure to scrape the pulp clinging to the bottom of the strainer. Whisk in the lemon juice. Taste and add salt, pepper and more lemon as needed. To serve, spoon the sauce over the shanks and shower them with the chopped herbs and a little freshly ground pepper. For making ahead: The dish can be made up to three days ahead. After braising, don’t bother skimming the fat from the braising liquid. Instead, strain and season the sauce as directed in the recipe, pressing down to extract the garlic pulp, and pour a little over the shanks to moisten the meat. Refrigerate the shanks and remaining strained braising liquid separately, both tightly covered. Before serving, arrange the shanks in a baking dish. Lift the solid fat from the top of the chilled liquid, spoon what remains over the shanks, cover with foil and warm in a 325 degree oven for about 30 minutes. Before serving, taste the sauce for seasoning. Finish with herbs and black pepper, and serve.	Back To Top

Fresh Oranges with Rosemary-Honey Syrup Fresh citrus with an herb-infused honey syrup makes a refreshing and bright wintertime dessert. If you wish, serve with a dollop of Greek-style yogurt. Serves 4 to 6 1/3 cup honey 1 tablespoon water 2 to 3 leafy rosemary sprigs 5 seedless oranges, such as navel, including some blood oranges if possible 2 tablespoons chopped crystallized ginger 1. Combine the water, honey and rosemary in a small, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Bring just to a boil. Remove from the heat, cover and set aside to cool to room temperature. 2. Just before serving: Finely grate the zest (use a rasp-style grater if you have one) from 1 orange to get about 2 teaspoons zest. Cut off the stem and blossom ends of the oranges, being sure to cut into some of the flesh; reserve the tops and bottoms for later. Then, one by one, stand an orange up and carve off the peel and white pith beneath it with arcing slices to expose the fruit. Trim away any bits of pith or membrane that you’ve left behind, until you have a whole naked orange. Discard the peels cut from the sides. Cut each orange in half vertically, trim out the pithy core, and then slice each piece crosswise into 1/4-inch half moons. Arrange the slices on a large, shallow serving dish or deep platter. 3. Chop together the reserved zest and crystallized ginger on a cutting board (or in a small food processor) until they're well mixed. Scatter the ginger and zest evenly over the oranges. Squeeze the juice from the reserved ends of the oranges over all. 4. Remove the rosemary sprigs from the honey, scraping with your fingers to get every last drop, and drizzle the honey syrup over the oranges. Serve.	Back To Top

Knife-and-Fork Egg Salad Sandwiches with Chives SERVES 4 I like to serve this egg salad on slices of brown bread made according to the classic recipe found in James Beard's Beard on Bread (Knopf, 1973), though it's equally delicious atop any bread or even eaten on its own. 6 eggs 1/2 cup finely chopped chives 2 tbsp. finely chopped celery leaves Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1/3 cup mayonnaise 2 tsp. white wine vinegar 4 large slices pumpernickel bread 1 1/2 tbsp. butter, softened 1 small bunch watercress, stems trimmed 1. Arrange eggs in a single layer in a medium pot and cover with cold water by 1". Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then immediately remove pot from heat. Cover and let rest for 8–10 minutes undisturbed. Drain eggs, leaving them in the pot; shake the pot to crack their shells. Cover eggs with cold water, swish around, then drain. Cover again, this time with icy-cold water (add a few ice cubes if necessary), and set aside to let chill for 20 minutes. Peel and coarsely chop eggs. 2. Combine eggs, half the chives, celery leaves, and salt and pepper to taste in a medium bowl and fold together gently to combine. Add mayonnaise and vinegar, and fold again, being careful not to mash up the eggs. 3. Toast bread lightly, then butter each slice on one side. Arrange a bit of the watercress on top of each piece of toast, buttered side up. Dollop each piece with a generous scoop of egg salad. Transfer the sandwiches to plates. Sprinkle with remaining chives and serve immediately.	Back To Top

Orange Marmalade Tart I especially like this with my homemade grapefruit marmalade, but store-bought preserves will do (Stonewall Kitchen Tangerine Marmalade works especially well). Grating a bit of the pastry onto the top of the tart before baking gives it a nice added crunch and eliminates the hassle of making the more traditional lattice. Makes one 8-inch tart Crust: 1 1/4 cup all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons granulated sugar 2 tablespoons yellow cornmeal, preferably stone-ground 1/2 teaspoon salt 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces and chilled 1 large egg yolk 2 to 3 tablespoons cold milk, cream or water Filling: 1 heaping cup of your favorite marmalade or jam (one 13-ounce jar) 1/3 cup sliced almonds Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting Make the crust: In the workbowl of a food processor, combine the flour, sugar, cornmeal and salt. Whir briefly to combine. Add the butter, toss carefully with your hands to coat the butter cubes in flour. Pulse the food processor several times until the mixture resembles coarse oatmeal. Add the egg and 2 tablespoons of the milk, cream or water, and pulse until the dough begins to come together in a ball. Add the additional tablespoon of liquid if needed until the dough comes together. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead it briefly to shape it into a disk about 5 inches across. If the dough feels sticky or warm, refrigerate it to firm up. Using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll the dough into a 10-inch circle. Loosely fold the dough in half and transfer it to an 8-inch tart pan. Line the pan with the dough, being careful not to stretch the dough. Trim any excess dough from the rim of the pan, leaving a blunt neat edge. Gather the trimmings into a ball (it should be about the size of a ping pong ball). Wrap the tart and the small ball of dough in plastic and refrigerate for 1 hour and up to 2 days. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Remove the tart pan from the refrigerator, and spread the marmalade evenly over the crust. Grate the chilled ball of pastry onto the filling, and sprinkle the almonds over the top. Bake on a rack in the center of the oven until the pastry is golden, the filling is bubbly and the almonds are toasted, 40 to 50 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. When the tart is completely cool, dust with confectioners’ sugar. Serve at room temperature.	Back To Top

Sausages & Plums Braised in Red Wine As you’re cutting up the plums for this recipe, taste a piece. If the plums are on the sour side (as some early-season varieties are), add a pinch of sugar to the braise to bring out their sweetness. If plums aren’t in season make the dish with grapes (see the variation that follows). Since there’s no stock in the braising liquid to round out the flavor of the wine, it’s important here to use a wine that really tastes good to you. I particularly like using a lightly fruity but dry Beaujolais—a real Beaujolais, not the raw-tasting Nouveau Beaujolais that shows up every November. Serve with polenta or sautéed potatoes and a baguette or other crusty bread to sop up every last bit of the gorgeous magenta-hued sauce. It’s too good to leave any behind. Pass a simple tossed arugula or spinach salad at the table. Wine notes Lighter-style Pinot Noir from California, or another fruity red, such as Beaujolais Villages. Serves 4 to 6 Braising Time: 25 to 30 minutes 1 pound ripe purple or red plums, such as Santa Rosa or Italian (or grapes, see variation that follows) 1 3/4 to 2 pounds sweet Italian sausages (with or without fennel seed) 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 large shallot, minced (about 3 scant tablespoons) 1 to 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh sage or 1/2 teaspoon rubbed Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper Pinch of sugar, if needed 2/3 cup light, fruity dry red wine, such as Beaujolais, Dolcetto, or Pinot Noir 1. The plums: Working over a bowl to collect the juices, cut the plums into 1/2-inch wedges, tasting a piece to judge their sweetness, and letting them drop into the bowl. If the plums are not freestone, you’ll have to cut the flesh away from the pits with a knife. Set aside. 2. Browning the sausages: If the sausages are linked together, separate the links with a sharp paring knife or a pair of scissors. Prick each link in several places with the tip of a sharp knife (this will prevent the sausages from exploding). Heat the oil in a large lidded skillet or shallow braising pan (12-inch is a good choice) over medium-high heat until the oil slides easily across the pan. Add the sausages and fry them, turning frequently with tongs, until a medium brown crust has formed on at least three sides, 10 to 12 minutes total. Using tongs, so as not to pierce the casings further, transfer the sausages to a large plate, without stacking. 3. The aromatics: Depending on how fatty the sausages are, there may or may not be an excess of fat in the pan. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon, return the pan to medium heat, and add the shallot. Stir immediately with a wooden spoon, and sauté just until the shallot begins to brown, about 1 minute. Add the garlic and sage, stir again, and sauté until fragrant, another 30 seconds or so. Add the plums and all of their juices. Season with salt, pepper, and pinch of sugar if the plums tasted tart. Stir and sauté until the juices begin to sizzle, about 2 minutes. 4. The braising liquid: Pour in the wine, increase the heat to medium-high, and stir with a wooden spoon, scraping the bottom of the pan to dislodge any precious cooked-on bits that will enrich the flavor of the braising liquid. Simmer for 3 to 4 minutes to meld the flavors some. 5. The braise: Return the sausages to the pan, nestling them down so they are surrounded by the plums. Add any juices that may have accumulated on the plate. Cover the pan and reduce the heat to a very gentle simmer. Check after 5 minutes to make sure that the wine is not simmering too excitedly. If it is, lower the heat or put a heat diffuser beneath the pan. Continue braising gently, turning the sausages after 15 minutes, until the sausages are cooked all the way through, 25 to 30 minutes total. Check for doneness by piercing a sausage with a skewer or meat fork to see if the juices run clear. If you are unsure, nick a sausage with a small knife and peer inside to see that there is no pink left. 6. The finish: Transfer the sausages with tongs to a serving platter. Lift the plums from the pan with a slotted spoon and arrange them around the sausages. Cover loosely with foil to keep warm. Return the braising liquid to the stove. Taste and evaluate the sauce. Depending on how juicy the plums and sausages were, you may or may not need to reduce the sauce: it should be the consistency of a thick vinaigrette. If necessary, bring to a strong simmer over medium-high heat, and simmer for 2 to 4 minutes to thicken and concentrate the flavor. I don’t bother skimming this sauce, since the fat from the sausages is integral in balancing the taste, but it never tastes oily or fatty. Taste for salt and pepper. The sauce is meant to be slightly sharp to offset the rich taste of the pork sausage. Pour the sauce over the sausages and plums, and serve. VARIATION: SAUSAGES & GRAPES BRAISED IN RED WINE Substitute whole seedless red or purple table grapes for the plums. Add them in place of the plums in Step 3. Most grapes are sweet enough on their own so as not to need the pinch of sugar. Taste and judge for yourself. Recipe from "All About Braising: The Art of Uncomplicated Cooking", by Molly Stevens (WW Norton)	Back To Top

Creamy White Bean Soup with Sausage You can easily turn this into a vegetarian meal by using vegetable broth and frying up croutons in olive oil in place of the crumbled sausage. Serves 6 to 8 (Makes about 9 cups) 2 cups dried cannellinni or Great Northern beans, soaked for at least 8 hours in cold water 1 garlic clove, smashed 2 leafy sprigs sage or rosemary (optional) 1 bay leaf 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 heaping teaspoon coarse salt, or to taste For the soup: 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 yellow onion, coarsely chopped 1 carrot, coarsely chopped 1 celery rib, coarsely chopped 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 cups chicken broth (low-sodium if store-bought), or as needed 1 pound spicy fresh pork sausage, such as Italian or Mexican chiorizo 1/2 cup heavy cream Drain and rinse the beans. Transfer them to a heavy saucepan and cover with cold water by about 2 inches (about 6 cups of water). Add the garlic, bay leaf, herb sprigs (if using), and olive oil. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat, and cook, adjusting the heat so the liquid never boils, until the beans are tender, 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Season with salt. If not making soup right away, let cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate the beans in the cooking liquid for up to 2 days. To make the soup: Drain the beans, reserving the cooking liquid, and discarding the bay leaf and any woody stems from the herbs. You should have about 2 cups of cooking liquid. Heat the olive oil in a heavy-based soup pot over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery. Season with salt and pepper, and sauté until beginning to soften but not at all brown, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and 1 teaspoon of the fresh thyme, and sauté until fragrant, another 2 minutes. Add enough broth to the reserved bean cooking liquid to equal 6 cups. Add the beans to the pot along with the bean and chicken broth. Simmer gently until the vegetables are tender, about 25 minutes. Let the soup cool for about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, fry the sausage in a large skillet over medium-high heat, crumbling it with a wooden spoon as it cooks, and set aside on a paper-towel lined plate to drain. Remove a heaping cup of beans from the soup and set aside. Puree the remaining soup until smooth in a blender or with an immersion blender. If you used a blender, wipe out the pot and return the soup to it. Return the reserved beans to the soup along with the heavy cream. Reheat and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve in warm bowls garnishing each bowl with sausage and a pinch of the remaining thyme.	Back To Top

Skillet Cornbread with Olives, Rosemary and Parmesan Makes one 9 or 10-inch loaf 1 1/4 cup all-purpose flour 1 cup cornmeal, preferably stone-ground 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 large egg 2 teaspoons tomato paste 1 1/2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary Several dashes hot sauce, such as Tabasco 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the pan 1 cup whole milk 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese (about 4 ounces) 1/2 cup brine-cured olives, such as kalamata or picholine, pitted and coarsely chopped Place a 9- or 10-inch cast iron skillet on the center rack of the oven, and preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Combine the dry ingredients in a mixing bowl, and whisk to combine. In a separate bowl, whisk together the egg, tomato paste, rosemary, and hot sauce. Whisk in the olive oil and then the milk. Stir the wet ingredients into the dry, stirring just to combine. Stir in the cheese and the olives. Remove the skillet from the oven and add a tablespoon of olive oil, swirling so the oil coats the bottom and sides. Pour the batter into the hot skillet, return it to the oven, and immediately lower the oven temperature to 400 degrees. Bake until the top is golden and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 25 minutes.	Back To Top

Red Cabbage Braised with Maple & Ginger An old-fashioned dish that appears on my holiday dinner table just as it did on my grandmother’s table when I was a child. Braising cabbage this way renders it lusciously silky and aromatic with the flavors of spice and fruit. The enchanting sweet-and-sour taste comes from apple, cider vinegar and a shot of maple syrup. I add bacon at the beginning of the braise so it will lend its smoky savor to the dish. If you prefer, hold the bacon back and crumble it over just before serving for a crunchy contrast. Serves 6 to 8 \| Braising Time: about 1 hour 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil or vegetable oil 2 slices thick-cut bacon (2 ounces), cut into 1/2-inch-wide strips 1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 medium yellow onion (6 ounces), thinly sliced Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger 1 medium head red cabbage (about 1 3/4 pounds), quartered, cored, and thinly sliced 1/4 cup cider vinegar 2 tablespoons pure maple syrup 1. Heat the oven to 300 degrees. 2. Frying the bacon: Combine the oil and bacon in a large deep ovenproof skillet (12- to 13-inch), set the skillet over medium heat, and fry the bacon until it renders its fat and begins to crisp, 5 minutes. Scoop out the bacon with a slotted spoon and set aside on paper towels to drain. 3. Sautéing the aromatics and wilting the cabbage: Add the butter to the bacon fat in the pan and stir in the sliced onion. Season with salt and pepper and sauté, stirring a few times, until the onion turns limp, about 2 minutes. Add the apple and ginger and stir to combine. Increase the heat to medium-high and begin adding the cabbage a few handfuls at a time. Once all the cabbage is in the skillet, sauté, stirring frequently, until the strands begin to wilt and have a moist gleam, about 6 minutes. Add the vinegar and syrup, and return the bacon to the pan. Stir to incorporate, and let the liquid come to a boil. 4. The braise: Cover the pan and slide into the middle of the oven. Braise at a gentle simmer, stirring every 20 minutes, until the cabbage is tender and deeply fragrant, about 1 hour. Serve warm or at room temperature. VARIATION: Red Cabbage Braised with Apple Cider, Maple & Ginger In the fall when I have fresh apple cider on hand, I add some to the braise along with a generous measure of red wine vinegar to balance the sweetness. Follow the recipe above, substituting 1/4 cup fresh apple cider combined with 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar for the cider vinegar. The end result will be a bit sweeter and every bit as delicious. Recipe from "All About Braising: The Art of Uncomplicated Cooking", by Molly Stevens (WW Norton)	Back To Top

Braised Lamb Shanks with Garlic and Vermouth The inspiration for this recipe comes from Richard Olney's "Simple French Food", where the shanks and garlic are cooked with nothing more than a bit of water. I've updated Olney's version by adding dry white vermouth adn a few bay leaves. Make this on a Sunday afternoon when you're hanging around doing nothing much at all. As the lamb braises, wonderful meaty, herbaceous aromas will fill the house. Serves 6 6 lamb shanks (3/4 to 1 pound each) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 cup dry white vermouth, preferably Vya or Noilly Pratt 2 bay leaves 2 heads garlic, separated into cloves (unpeeled) 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice; more as needed 1/4 cup chopped fresh herbs, preferably a mix of mint and parsley (chervil and chives are also good) Heat the oven to 325 degrees. Trim any excess fat from the lamb shanks (being careful not to trim away the thin membrane that holds the meat to the bone) and season them all over with salt and pepper. Heat the oil over medium heat in a large Dutch oven or other heavy braising pot large enough to accommodate the lamb shanks in single or double layer. When the oil is shimmering, add half the shanks and brown on all sides, 12 to 15 minutes total. Set the browned shanks on a platter or tray to catch any drippings. Repeat with the remaining shanks. When all the shanks are browned, pour off and discard the fat from the pan. Return the pan to medium-high heat and add the vermouth. As the vermouth boils, stir with a wooden spoon to dissolve the drippings. Return the shanks to the pan, arranging them as best you can so they fit snugly. Tuck the bay leaves in between the shanks and scatter over the garlic. Cover and slide into the lower third of the oven. Braise, turning the shanks every 45 minutes, until fork tender, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Transfer the shanks to a platter and cover with foil to keep warm. Tilt the braising pot to pool the juices at one end and skim off the surface fat. Strain the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing down on the garlic cloves so the pulp goes through but not the skins. Discard the bay leaves. Whisk in the lemon juice. Taste the strained sauce for salt. To serve, spoon the sauce over the shanks and shower them with the chopped herbs and a little freshly ground pepper. For making ahead: don’t bother skimming the fat from the braising liquid. Instead, strain it, pressing down to extract the garlic pulp, and pour a little over the shanks to moisten the meat. Refrigerate the shanks and remaining strained braising liquid separately, both tightly covered. Before serving, arrange the shanks in a baking dish. Lift the solid fat from the top of the chilled liquid, spoon what remains over the shanks, cover with foil and warm in a 325 degree oven for about 30 minutes. Finish with herbs and black pepper, and serve.	Back To Top